.

Arisaig to Ardnish

2011-08-11T06:32:00.001-07:00

I would have an early start today, but the grandeur of the morning had made it all worthwhile. The midges were up late, but not late enough, they gave me one or two affectionate bites, as though saying cheerio and have a safe journey.
I pushed off and left behind the little sandy bay that had given much pleasure over the past few days. In the turquoise water small shoals of sand eels darted under the kayak as though hiding from the terns that were chattering on the wing further out.
Looking back, the Island of Eigg and Rhum, shimmered in the morning heat.

Passing Eilean a' Ghaill, and in the distance Ardnish, and the Moidart Mountains. Just wonderful.

Eilean a’ Ghaill (Stranger's Isle),which has the remain of an ancient fort on it.

Ardnish and the Mountains of Moidart, shrouded by morning the cloud. All around, my world was awash in a serenity of blue hue. Sometimes, I find it impossible to convey through words the emotions that are awakened by the riches that are experienced in the natural environment, and this time is one of them.

Ardnish and the Mountains of Moidart seemed to beckon me, and soon I had reached Ardnish, gliding between Rubha Chaolais and Eilean a' Chaolais. I had been on the water for about two hours and had experienced some of the most inspiring and leisurely paddling ever. As ever I was welcomed and escorted by some seals as I headed to find a place to camp. I had wanted to explore the ruined crofts and fish the hill lochs in this area. As it turned out, the area of Ardnish, has its own very special atmosphere. Yet again, another wonderful area,a magical place, where the past lingers and can be felt .
Another fine campsite.

Large numbers of swallows skimmed above the lush meadow in front of the ruins feeding and chattering in the warn morning sun along with numerous butterflies. I lay on my sleeping bag for a moment and closed my eyes, you could feel the peace and tranquillity of the area: bees and insects buzzed as they fed on the machair flowers, terns and swallows chattered and the waves gently lapped the sea shore. I felt I was home.

One of the many types of flowers from the meadow that runs down to the shore from the ruins and bothy.

The bothy . All bothies have their own character.

The shellfish life on this part of the coast is prolific. A nearby bay contained a few pockets of wild oysters. When the tide is out there is a sandy bottom exposed. The shallows are alive with sand eels, small shoals of fish, crabs and many juvenile flatfish. I even saw some bigger flatfish (pan size) flap of into deeper water, leaving a trail of sand in their wake.
Wild Oysters.

The derelict crofts of Peanmeanach.

Peanmeanach is an abandoned settlement on the Ardnish peninsula. A sad lonely row of roofless 'black-houses' stand on a raised beach. The name Peanmeanach originates from the Norse system of land division. An ounceland was a large area of land thought capable of producing enough for an ounce of silver in rent. Each ounceland was divided into twenty pennylands, or farms. The other part of the name, 'meanach', is Gaelic for 'middle'.
Before the Highland Clearances, upwards of 80 people lived around Peanmeanach: tending black cattle, sheep, and growing barley and potatoes.

After a few cups of tea I headed into the hills to fish a few of the hill lochs that hopefully contained trout in their peaty waters. The walk from my camp at the shore to the hill lochs was beautiful; the small strip of machair, then the meadow, the wet meadow at the rear of the ruins was alive with different types of dragon and damsel flies, and butterflies. You then enter a small birch and oak wood which was dappled with sunbeams shinning through the leaves, ferns and mosses adorn the banks of the woodland, and the air was filled with bird song.

One of the hill Lochs I would fish. The wild brown trout were not big, but they fought well and had beautiful markings.

Later back at camp I tried to read my book that evening in the tent: Neil Gunn’s, Silver Darlings, but again fell asleep before ending the paragraph. The early rise and walk in the hills had taken it out of me-zzzzzzz.
The next day was grey and dreich (wet). Again, I fished the hill lochs, no brown trout were caught, I got soaking wet, but I was happy. A day for the tent, lashings of tea and catching up with my reading.
One of two snipe chicks found between the ruined crofts.

Scotland’s national symbol.

The legend of the thistle: relates how a sleeping party of Scots warriors during the rein of the Scottish King Alexander 111 (1249-1286), were almost set upon by invading Vikings and were only saved when one of the attackers trod on a wild thistle with his bare feet. His cries raised the alarm and the roused Scots duly defeated the Norsemen. In gratitude, the plant became known as the Guardian Thistle and was adopted as the symbol of Scotland.
Day 5
The last day. The wind had risen through the night as the ‘Coastguard Inshore Weather Forecast’ had predicted. Loch Aiort had a steadily increasing wave on it (still nothing serious), and further out, the Sound of Arisaig was looking very lumpy. It would be plan ‘B’: a short paddle into Loch Aiort, beach the kayak, hitch a lift back to Glenuig to get the car. Plan ‘B’ went to plan, and soon my first extended solo trip was over. The trip may be over but the memories will be with me forever. Fantastic.

It was not only kayakers I met on this trip. I spent a pleasurable hour talking to Graham Cooper, who with his wife Marilyn, run a Bed and Breakfast at Camas na Gualainn, on the beautiful shoreline of Lochailort. For those of you who don’t like camping when kayaking Graham and Marily’s, home would be a fantastic base to stay for day trips. Both run this smallholding BandB and have a selection of animals associated with this lifestyle. Quality food would be one of the many benefits of staying at their home situated in one of the most stunning areas in Scotland. Wildlife will also be experienced from your stay at their home: seals, otters, eagles, wildcats area regularly seen at close quarters from their lounge. Graham and Marilyn, will be sympathetic to all the needs of kayakers who stay here, and the rates are very reasonable also. Added to this, launching the kayak is a paddles length from their house.

For further details contact:
Marilyn and Graham Cooper
Camas na Gualainn
Roshven
Lochailort
PH38 4NB
Tel: 01687 470414
Email: duckbang@sky.com

The end.
David A

Arisaig

2011-08-10T08:43:00.000-07:00

This trip would be my first extended solo paddle. The wilds and solitude have always attracted me. To be able to immerse myself in a natural environment and to experience the riches of the wilderness was one of the aims of this trip. An adventure begins.
Safety is always a priority when sea kayaking, but solo paddling further heightened the vulnerability factor. With this in mind safety procedures were put in place to minimise the possible risks: email to Stornoway Coastguard with details of
• My personal details
• Trip dates
• Discription of kayak, colour and kayak’s name
• Paddling area ( route dependant on sea and weather conditions)
• safety equipment carried: selection of flares, VHF, GPS, mobile phone with contact number (Stornoway Coastguard number in memory) and first aid equipment
• Emergency contact name and number
• Vehicle description and reg, and where it would be parked during the duration of the trip.
Contact with the Coastguard would only be made if delayed or an emergency situations.

The launch point for the trip would be Glenuig Bay, Northern Moidart, with access to the Sound of Arisaig and some of the best sea kayaking areas in Scotland. The car would be left at Glenuig Inn and Sea Kayaking Centre (as arranged through the forum), run by Steve MacFarlane, an enthusiastic kayaker and ambitious businessman. Trip details were also left with staff at, Glanuig Inn. The Glenuig Inn website is worth a look. Good luck with the business Steve. www.glenuig.com/
On the water at last. The sea and weather conditions were fantastic as I paddled north across the Sound of Arisaig. Like the heartbeat of the ocean, the swell from the west came in on sets, and added to the enjoyment of the crossing as it passed under the kayak lifting and lowering it, as it continued on its rush towards Ardnish Point.

I paddled on to explore An Glas-eilean and other islands and skerries that lie at the mouth of Loch Nan Uamh. Flightless black back gull chicks strutted about the skerries as the adults sinisterly patrolled the skies overhead. Shags dived from the rocks into the pristine waters of the Sound and the shinny heads of inquisitive seals bobbed around the kayak giving the occasional snort.
I beached the kayak at a near by bay next to another two kayaks to view a bothy that sits high on a cragg. Inside the bothy were Andy, and Perry, kayakers from Sheffield who had set up home for the night. They were kind enough to invite me to stay for the night but I wanted to push further along the coast. I hope you managed to see the otters.

I was soon paddling along the southern coast of the Arisaig Peninsular. My companions were the delicate and streamlined terns as they dived for eels in the turquoise waters near the shore and the occasional red deer as they grazed on the succulent summer grass on the small hill tops that run up from the sea.
There are many places to camp along this area, but I found this little bit of paradise to set up camp. The view from a hill top of the campsite. What a view from the tent door.
A wonderful end to a perfect day, the Island of Eigg shrouded in cloud. Stunning, just stunning.
The skies were mostly blue and the sea was calm as I paddled to explore the numerous islands and skerries that lie at the mouth of Loch nan Ceall, west of Arisaig village. The Island of Eigg and Rhum in the distance. These skerries and islands were a haven for seals and other wildlife.
A convenient sign post for sea kayakers looking for the village of Arisaig. Back at camp and after a well deserved meal I was of fishing from the shore around the bay, with some success.
A Coalfish.
A Pollock.
The end of another memorable day, and another fantastic sunset.
Day 3
Today I would break camp and head back east along the coast towards the Ardnish area. It was hard to leave this wonderful campsite and the wildlife that I had shared it with: otters, seals, ravens, herons, terns diving for eels and gannets further out. The list could go on and on.
Cliodhna packed and ready to go. The journey will continue in the posting: Arisaig to Ardnish.

David A.

Skye, Scalpay and Raasay. Part 4. The End.

2011-07-06T07:34:00.000-07:00

After our encounter with the dolphins we paddled across the Narrows of Raasay to explore some of the caves on the Skye coast before heading north. This area along the coast had numerous shag nests on the low lying cliffs. Some of these birds were still sitting on eggs, while others had chicks at different stages. We eventually came across a possible camping site: OS, 513 375. Although the shore has some large smooth boulders on it, and the high grass plateau above the shore line and between the fence looks slightly unpromising, it is a very good place to camp. You could get about four tents on the flat plateau. There are also magnificent views up the Sound of Raasay, with Ben Tianavage on Skye and the Island of Raasay stretching northward towards the open sea.
Campsite.

View from the tent.

That evening I fished from the rocks and caught several Pollack.

The one below was the smallest but it had the most beautiful markings.

The smell of crushed grass from below the tent filled the air. I lay on top my sleeping bag looking out of the tent door, drinking another cup of tea, trying to soak up this wonderful environment and reflecting on the events of the day. I scanned the shore and small bay for otters again in the twilight (11-30pm), with no success. However, the dolphins did put in one last appearance as they rolled well out in the Sound heading towards Tianavage Bay. A great way to end a wonderful day.

After breaking camp we again paddled north along the coast of Ben Tianavage which was breath taking. For reference, there is a good camping area along this coastline: OS, 519 401. Although it is very rocky, there is an area on the left of the shoreline that looks more suitable for landing (with care). There is a large grazed grass area above the shoreline. Again, it also depends on the weather and sea conditions for landing.
Looking north, Ben Tianavage, and in the distance, The Storr.

We also had the privilege of seeing two Sea Eagles as we neared the mouth of the entrance that takes you into Portree Bay. This would be our last night on Skye and we wanted to be somewhere, near our exit point, to come of the water the next day. There is a good camping area at Camas Ban (OS, 491 424), it has a beautiful sandy beach and has some well drained short grass. We paddled into Portree to get something to eat, before heading back out to Camas Ban to set up camp. After breaking camp the next morning we slowly paddled to the shore of Portree, and the adventure was sadly over.

Looking east out of Portree Bay towards Raasay.

Portree

The End.

David Ardrey

Skye, Scalpay and the Raasay Dolphins. Part 3.

2011-07-06T06:53:00.001-07:00

Part 3, Scalpay, to Clachan on Raasay. Full selection of dolphin pictures.
It was another fine morning. As we broke camp the cuckoo bid us farewell as we started to paddle across Caol Mor towards the SW corner of the Island of Raasay. The wind and wave increased slightly as we made the crossing. However, after reaching Rubha na Cloiche the conditions eased and we had a following breeze that pushed us on towards Clachan, where we would visit the Raasay Outdoor Centre and perhaps have lunch.
Jim and the landing site at Clachan on the Island of Raasay.The Red Cuillin dominate the views to the south.

The new pier at Clachan, Raasay.

One of a pair of mermaids on the embattlements at Clachan.

Ready to get back on the water.

The Island of Raasay has a welcoming atmosphere about it, and I will have to visit it again for an extended stay.
The weather was now superb with a light warm breeze and sun. As we passed the end of the pier we were greeted to a wonderful sight as three dolphins broke the surface of the sea heading towards us. I asked Jim to raft up quickly hoping to get the classic picture of these magnificent creatures rolling on the surface dorsal fins showing. However, what happened over the next 30 minutes was truly unbelievable. The experience of a lifetime!!!

I will let the pictures tell the story.

The middle dolphin that is rolling has a wound on its back with a discharge or growth.

A very close encounter. Fantastic.

Thechildren from the outdoor centre get a surprises visit they will never forget.
The pod move out into open water.

David Ardrey

Skye, Scalpay and Raasay. Part 2.

2011-07-06T06:41:00.000-07:00

Part 2, Ardnish to North Scalpay.
Finally the weather had broken. I unzipped the tent after a good night’s sleep to the welcoming sight of the sun, blue skies and a calm blue sea. The seals that had been patrolling just of the shoreline since we had arrived were still there waiting to escort us off their territory. So breakfast was finished and it was time to leave our skerrie and head for Broadford on the east coast of Skye. As prearranged David C would leave us at Broadford. After lunch Jim and myself, helped by a following breeze headed through Caolas Scalpay and hugged the attractive west coast of the Island of Scalpay. To our delight we encountered several otters (two otters had pups with them) as we paddled along the coast of Scalpay. As we paddled north we saw many herons, and as we neared Camas na Geadaig we spotted a heard of red deer moving over the hillside on Scalpay.
As we put the tents up at Camas na Geadaig a cuckoo began to call, high overhead two ravens harried a golden eagle, and three seals arrived in the bay. Their bay!!
Camas na Geadaig, NW shoulder of Scalpay. Skye's Red Cuillin Hills in the background

Jim reflecting on the days paddle.
The evening glow.Views across the bay to the Island of Raasay.

A contented kayaker.

I lay looking out of the tent door, drinking tea and enjoying the views of the southern coast of the Island of Raasay. The twilight lingered on as seals snorted close to the shore, otters and herons hunted in the bay. When I did eventually slip into my sleeping bag the two streams that run into the bay gently bib me good night, as the sound of running water faded and faded, ZZZZZZZZZ.

David Ardrey.

Skye, Scalpay and Raasay. Part 1.

2011-07-06T06:03:00.000-07:00

After travelling up from the central belt of Scotland we camped at Reraig campsite at Balmacara Bay on the mainland a few miles from the Skye Bridge. There was a large reception of midges to welcome us as we put the tents up, and they also bid farewell to us as we quickly took down the tents the next morning. Breakfast was postponed and soon we were passing over the Skye Bridge to the launching site at Kyleakin on Skye.
Packing the kayaks at Kyleakin.There is ample parking here to leave the cars.

Cliodhna ready to go.

With the weather forecast of S/SE winds, possibly veering S/SW 4 to 5 over the next few days we would be paddling part of the east coast/Islands off the east coast of Skye depending on the weather conditions. Soon the three of us: Jim B, David C and myself were passing under the Skye Bridge on our adventure. The further along the coast we paddled the more the wind increased and the weather deteriorated. Ardnish Point came into view and as the squals further increased it was decided that we would stop for lunch soon. A sandy skerrie beckoned us as we slogged towards it, escorted by seals and a few pups. By the time we had reached the small beach it had been decided that if the weather did not improve we just might be camping on the skerrie tonight if there were suitable pitches for the tents. As it ended up we would be camped on the skerries two nights. However, the longer we stayed here the more of her secrets showed us.
Being a bit of a romantic I opted to camp on a sandy plateau above the spring water mark.

Jim and David C's pitch.

Although the sand looks like coral it is in fact calcified seaweed.The coral looking type beaches are made up from sun bleached Red Macro algae which when alive contain or secrete calcium.

Oyster Catchers nest and eggs.
Plant life on the skerrie.

Fossil: Ammonite ? The sandstone slabs held many remnants of the past.
The weather breaks. Good news for tomorrow.
David Ardrey.

Dolphins off the Island of Raasay

2011-07-04T03:24:00.000-07:00

Although every sea kayaking trip is special in its own right, every once in a while something happens that makes that particular trip just that extra bit special.
Checking us out.
Follow us
The show begins.
A Close encounter.
Children from the Raasay Outdoor Centre receive a visit that they will remember for a life time.

This was only part of a trip to Skye, Scalpay and Raasay. I will post a full trip report in parts with the complete set of dolphin pictures.

See you soon.

David A

Tent Review: Coleman Phad 3.

2011-07-04T02:57:00.000-07:00

Coleman Phad 3.
This was the first opportunity I had to try the tent over several days on an extended kayaking trip. There were some heavy showers of rain over the first few days and the tent inner stayed completely dry, which was reassuring. The gap between the inner tent wall and the wall of the flysheet was fine. The adjustable vents on the flysheet also helped to reduce condensation on the underside of the flysheet. The structure and design of the tent against the wind was not really challenged during the trip as the wind never rose above beaufort scale 6. The porch, as hoped was more than big enough to handle my wet kit in and cook in when the weather deteriorated. The inner tent although big enough for me to sleep in would not be suitable for anyone who was tall. The time to erect the tent decreased throughout the trip. Although the groundsheet felt thin and vulnerable, there was no, problems with it.
All that is needed now is a gale force wind to really try the tent out!!!!
Bye for now.
David A.

New Tent

2011-05-30T00:38:00.000-07:00

There comes a time when you have to accept the realities of life. A friend that in the past, has looked after you, sheltered you from the storms, protected you from torrential rain, and provided a haven from the elements and midges, is now looking tired, weary and fray around the edges. Tents are sometimes taken for granted: they are dried/aired after each trip, and stowed away for the next trip. However, there will be no next trip for the intrepid Wynnster Praire 2 man tent that was bought for £40 about seven years ago, off the bargain shelf of an outdoor retailer. It has travel with me throughout the past years providing a sanctuary at the end of a day’s paddling: overnight, weekends, and extended trips. From the Outer Hebrides, Islay, Mull to the many small islands and skerries of the West Coast of Scotland, never has it let me down, even camping in a force 8. Yes, it was battered and bruised, but it kept me dry.
My old Wynnster tent. One of the problems was that you had to put the inner tent up first before putting on the flysheet.

The porch of the Wynnster was too small to keep kit in, and cook at the same time if the weather was poor, but I did like the windows.

My new tent is a Coleman Phad 3. It is meant to be a 3 man tent, but I would call it a large 2 man tent. There is plenty of space in the inner compartment and a large porch area that will take some kit and allow me to cook at the same time if the weather is poor. Some people might say that this is a bit extravagant for one person, but I have never been a minimalist when it comes kayaking and camping. I like my space and luxury when out in the wild. The weight is just under 4KG and has a 4000 hydrostatic head flysheet, and the whole tent can be put up at once as the inner is attached to the flysheet with togs. One other important feature is you can have access through two sides into the porch. The tent cost £109 pp included, through Amazon, it is by no means a top of the range tent for extreme weather, but it does get some very good reviews from other outdoor enthusiasts.

What put me off getting a more expensive, better/well known makes was the problems associated with pole breakages (£150-350, and the poles break!!!). Only time will tell if the Coleman Phad lives up to the standard and reliability of my old Wynnster.
Bye for know.
David A

Followers Box

2011-05-27T12:09:00.000-07:00

Apologies to everyone who had registered as followers/pics, as it has disappeared!!!!!!

David A

Island Macaskin

2011-05-18T08:20:00.000-07:00

The problem with planning a kayaking weekend a few weeks in advance is the weather: just what will the weather be like. With this in mind, Plan A: Easdale to the Garvellachs ; Plan B: parking area at Graignish Point then round through Dorus Mor, then see what happens. At this planning stage there was no plan C. The weather forecast was NW/W 5-7, plan A was ruled out before we set of north on our journey, plan B was unlikely as we headed to Graignish to spend the night there before launching in the morning. In the morning plan B was also cancelled due to the increasing wind/squalls and sea conditions. A quick look at the map and plan C was formulated: launch at Ardfern explore some of the Islands in Loch Graignish, find a sheltered campsite for the night and take in the wonders around us. As it turned out is was a leisurely trip. Even with the rain showers and squalls, it turned out to be special (there all special). Launching at Ardfern was good with easy access to the shore. Soon we were paddling through the moorings towards the east channel between Eilean Mhic Chrion and the mainland exploring the salmon cages as bars of silver fish leaped out of the water. The mainland shore was heavily wooded trees with branches hanging out from the shore on to the water and the bird song gave this environment a fresh water loch atmosphere. Even with occasional shower, it was good to be out on the water. After exploring the channels at Eilean nan Gabhar we paddled down the east shore of Island Macaskin to its southerly point, before heading back north to a sheltered campsite we had selected.
The squalls and rain showers close in.
We explored the interior of the island and were amazed by the numerous high dry stain dykes that enclose some of the old pastures/crop fields throughout the island. The toil, sweat and physical demands of sourcing the stones from this island, moving them to where they are needed and building these dykes and clearing the fields in all weather conditions are unimaginable. Macaskin Island seems to have rich soil, if the mole hills are anything to go by. Most of the island is heavily wooded apart from the land that has been cleared in the past; unlike most of the smaller island on the west coast. There is also a kiln on the east coast which could have been used for liming the land. Perhaps the trees were managed for this very purpose.
As we walked to the summit of the island we came across an very old building, possibly a summer shieling.

The view north up Loch Grainish. View to the west towards Graignish Point and in the distance Jura.
Derelict crofts or dwellings are always sad places of stories forgotten, no fires in the hearth and no laughter of the children who no doubt once lived there. Without humans a sad lonely place, with no soul, and no welcoming smile.

Views from the southern end of Macaskin.

The wildlife was also fantastic: Hen Harriers, Canadian Geese with chicks, Wood Peckers drumming, herons, Pheasants, numerous types of Ducks and sea birds were seen and heard. And of course the Cuckoo’s that seemed to be calling everywhere, especially the one that that decided to take up a calling post on a tree next to the campsite at 6am. Fantastic.
Pheasant nest raided, possibly by a Hooded Crow.

Rocks on the shore being used as an anvil, possibly by Gulls, Crows or Otters, which there was plenty of signs of.

The weather was not good, but the memories of this trip and of the lonely croft will be with me forever.

The end.

Indian Summer in North Argyle

2010-10-14T04:54:00.000-07:00

Even though the weather forecast was fantastic for kayaking I left my boat (Cliodhna) at home. Sometimes life is about compromising, and so it was on this occasion. Still I had my wife (Jayne) and my fishing rods with me as we traveled through the night to Ledaig near Oban.
We arrived late on Friday night for a well earned rest. Five days holidays and the possibility of an Indian Summer, a bit of fishing and plenty of reading to wind down and relax. Saturday morning revealed that the Indian Summer had arrived. The views across the bay at Ledaig Caravan Park were stunning: a cloudless blue sky, flat calm sea and the southern tip of the Island of Lismore and Island of Mull shimmered in the morning heat haze. North Argyle had shown us her full glory in the soft Autumn sun.
A picture taken earlier in the season from Ben Lora. View looking over the Caravan Park towards the Island of Mull.
Saturday saw us heading into Oban for supplies and the moorings at Dunstaffnage demanded a few pictures.
Connel Bridge and the Falls of Lora on an ebb tide.

Kayakers: sea and river/surf are always attracted to the Fall of Lora at spring tides.

The view up Loch Etive from the Connel Bridge.

The view below the Connel bridge towards the Firth of Lorn.

Sea Kayakers enjoying the ebb flow from Loch Etive.

River/surf kayakers demonstrating their skills on the big wave at the north end of the Connel Bridge.

Most of the time was was taken up by reading, eating and sitting in the sun, enjoying the natural environment. The changing colours on the trees and surrounding vegetation was a pleasure to the eye and soul. The most energetic day was a short trip up to the village of Port Appin, where we walked and were again rewarded by the beautiful surroundings and veiws.

The Island of Shuna from Port Appin.

Bye for now.

David A.

Easdale

2010-09-13T13:02:00.001-07:00

Easdale
3/4/5 September 2010
This trip found us heading to paddle the waters around Seil Island, just south of Oban. The weather forecast at the beginning of the week looked promising. However, as the weekend arrived the forecast deteriorated: increasing S/E winds and rain. No matter what the weather would throw at us, it’s always a privilege to paddle the waters around this magnificent area of Scotland. This area always offers some sheltered areas to paddle. The group would be made up of four : Steve, David, Jim and myself. After meeting at Oban we headed down to Easdale to camp, and we would launch the following morning. Steve and David looked forward to their first sea kayak/camping experience. Plans were made and if the weather held we would circumnavigate Seil Island at a leisurely pace.

Launching at Easdale.

The weather was perfect we left Easdale behind and paddled north up the Sound of Insh following the west coast of Seil Island. After reaching Rubha Garbh Airde we paddled east towards the yacht anchorage near the skerries at Eilean Buidhe where we had launch. An enjoyable lunch was enhanced by watching the seals swimming and hunting around the skerries.

Lunch with Steve, myself and David.

David getting ready for the water.

After lunch we paddled to the north tip of Seil before heading south, down the narrow channel of Clachan Sound which separates the island from the mainland. As we approached Clachan Bridge (Bridge over the Atlantic) the freshening wind was channelled against us. The bar/pub at Clachan Bridge is known as Tigh an Truish Inn, ‘The House of Trousers’. So named because when the kilt was banned during the Jacobite rebellion, soldiers would change to trousers before heading over to the mainland and change back into their kilts on their way home. As we paddled into Seil Sound the wind increased and the rain came on and it was time to look for a suitable site to camp. We found a small bay just passed Balvicar Bay that gave us some shelter from the wind. Soon the tents were up, we were fed and dry and warm. Luckily the rain stopped and some of the evening was spent round a campfire. Jim as ever kept us amused with endless stories about sea kayaking. Most of them true!!!! Sorry all of them true!!!! Everyone slept well that night.

Our final day on the water was enjoyable as the weather was fine. We headed through Cuan Sound push on by the floodtide and following breeze.

Steve, Jim and David. Otherwise known as (in no particular order) the good the bad and the ugly.

David enjoying his time on the water.

Heading back to Easdale

Soon the trip was over. It had been another great trip: a wonderful environment and greay company.

Easdale Island

As well sea kayaking around this area I have also visited Seil Island and Easdale Island many times with my wife Jayne and my son Stewart when on holiday. Easdale Island is a magical place given the right weather. It has it’s own unique history and atmosphere. Easdale Island has had a colourful history. From the middle of the 17th century to the early 20th century it was an important centre for slate quarrying. The Island had as many as seven working quarries, some of which extended down to 300 feet below sea level. Together with other quarries on the neighbouring islands of Seil, Luing and Belnahua the Island gave its name to the famous Easdale Slate which was exported to Glasgow, Ireland and beyond. At the peak of the industry in the second half of the 19th century the population was in excess of 500. A storm in 1881 flooded the quarries, and thereafter the industry declined until the last slate was cut in the 1950's.

Hope you enjoy some pictures of Easdale Island.

The ferry from Easdale on Seil Island bringing visitors to Eadale Island.

Hope you enjoyed.

David

Isle of Islay 30-2 to 2-7-2010 (Final Posting)

2010-07-10T12:37:00.000-07:00

The Final Instalment (thank goodness).
30/06/2010 to 02/07/2010.

Due to the 24 hour weather forecast it was decided we would stay off the water. From Ardnave Point to Portnahaven is a pretty exposed coast line with few roads to get the kayaks of the water and back to the ferry if we were caught out. The forecast for evening was: increasing winds 5-7, with gale force 8 expected. It was essential that we got the ferry back on Friday 2nd July as it was my wife’s (Jayne) Birthday on 3rd July. However, this would give me plenty of time to explored Ardnave Point. It was another beautiful morning as I explored Ardnave’s dunes, machair and coastline round to the westside of the point at Eilean Nostaig. Loch Gruinart is noted for the diversity of birdlife due to the estuary and machair.The westcoast of Ardnave Point

The walk round the point as well as revealing that it is a fantastic area also demonstrated that it is a haven for birds, wildlife and butterflies. During the walk I spotted a flock of about 20 Coughs feeding on the machair, an assortment of Terns fishing many coming from Nave Island , Skylark song filled the air, Curlews, Snipe, Corncrakes rasping, Hen Harrier, Sparrow Hawk and the list could go on and on.Early afternoon it was again time to fish the estuary channels of Loch Gruinart for Sea Trout or Sea Bass. I had been watching the seals fishing the estuary since we had arrived. It was an exciting event: Seals crashing, twisting and rolling on the surface of the water before diving with explosive speed in pursuit of their meal.

It’s a tuff life but someone has to do it.

Sea Trout, one of a brace caught.

As the day went on the clouds built up and the wind steadily increased. I walked across the dunes and machair down a track then road to check the estuary channels out and visit Kilnave Chapel and the 5th Century Cross.

Later in the evening we prepared for the coming gale: only the essentials were kept in the tent, just encase it came down or it had to be moved, kayaks were moved to try to deflect some of the wind, paddles were lashed down and a few extra guy-ropes were attached to the tent. The winds started to build but nothing to worry about and I feel asleep about 11pm. At 2am I was wakened with torrential rain and increasing winds. The inner tent was dry but was leaning slightly with the wind, it was reassuring that everything was ok, and again I fell asleep. At 5am I was again wakened by the tent poles hitting me on my back. The tent was lying at 45 degrees, on occasions lower. I didn’t fall back asleep this time!!!!!However, the tent and I made it through (unhurt/damaged) the worst weather we had camped in.

01/07/2010

In the morning Loch Gruinart had changed its character from a tropical looking lagoon into a grey caldron of anger. The open sea must still have been hellish because for the first time Gannets were fishing in Loch Gruinart. However, no matter what the weather was like it was a special day: It was Jim’s 60th Birthday. Yes he does look only 57!!!!! The rest of the day: Jim hitched to Port Ellen to get the car (during this time the winds fell the skies cleared and the sun returned), a short paddle and the boats were unloaded for the last time. We headed to the Port Askaig area to look for a camping spot.

The Paps of Jura from Islay on our last night.

02/07/2010

The fine weather had returned as we waited at Port Askaig for the ferry. For me the saddest moment of any kayaking trips to the Islands is watching the ferry sailing into the Port to take you to the mainland (reality awaits).

The End.

David A

Isle of Islay 29/06/2010

2010-07-08T23:36:00.000-07:00

29/06/2010
Bagh an Da Dhoruis to Loch Gruinart.

Oyster Catchers are better than an alarm clock. Their shrilling call which had been our companion throughout the trip now indicated that it was time to get up. Even before I unzipped the inner tent door I could tell that it was a fine morning. The sea was flat calm, mostly blue sky, the waves broke gently on the beach, Red Deer were feeding on the ridge above the cliffs, Seals floated with their heads pointing skywards (sleeping or just floating?), Ring Plovers trilled, Turnstones twittered. You got the feeling that it was going to be another great day on the water. We would wait for the tide to rise before setting off so this gave us a few hours to explore the beach and coast line again; but first breakfast and lashings of tea.
More Otter tracks on the beach, this time near our tents.
Further on in the week I was talking to the Skipper of the Port Askaig to Jura ferry about the number of Spider Crab shells and limbs that I had found at Bagh an Da Dhoruis (I thought we didn’t get them round the coast of Scotland). He explained how trawlers (didn’t say where from) had been discarding their catch of Spider Crabs north of Islay if they could not get them to market before they died. Since then these spiders have grown in numbers to such an extent that some of the Scallop beds are unfishable. The Spiders that are caught by the Lobster/Crab fishermen (due to their size) are taken from the outside of the pots as they cling onto the netting.I was going to assemble one together from the many parts lying about the beach, but I was not sure how many legs they have or what direction the legs should be placed in.
Spider Crab

Arctic Tern nest and eggs.

Beachcombing is one of my favourite activities when kayaking. Bagh an Da Dhoruis being a storm beach was ideal. Buoys and rope from fishing activities were sprinkled along the high water mark pushed up with the storms. Lobster pots, a few new but most in varying states of decay also held my interest. Wood that had been sculptured by the sea, sun and sand is always beautiful to look, also useful for firewood. However, in the caves near the sea there is plenty of evidence of the problem that plastics/plastic containers can have on this environment. This last comment does not take away anything from the beauty of this area. Time to leave Bagh an Da Dhoruis and head along the rugged but beautiful shoreline. Just as the Seals had escorted us into Bagh an Da Dhoruis, they also escorted us out. The cliffs west from Bagh an Da Dhoruis are a testament to the battle that rages between sea and land. Which element is winning this battle is highlighted by the numerous numbers of caves, arches and collapsed arches that are littered for miles along the coast. The scale of some of these features were only conveyed by Fulmars flying from them or nesting on the otter cave or arch walls. Every rock cove, stony beach or sculpture rock formation seems to invite you to explore the area more closely. It would take a full week or more to explore this area fully. The rocky out crop at Rubha Bholsa held some of the largest colonies of seals we had observed.

Looking southwest down the coast towards Ardnave Point we could see that the landscape would soon be changing.

We decided to explore one last beach near Gortantaoid Point.

After a short break it did not take long before we were paddling along the deserted blazing white sands and high dunes of Traigh Baile Aonghais. Numerous numbers of Terns were fishing in the almost tropical coloured sea. This area we were entering is associated with sand, dunes and machair. Islay is so diverse in landscape and wildlife. A magical place for the sea kayaker. We paddled across the entrance of estuary of Loch Gruinart, west from Killinallan Point. There was just enough water to avoid stranding the kayaks on the sandbanks and landed on the east side of Ardnave Point to find a campsite.

Landing on the East of Ardnave Point.

The after- glow from the evening sun further enhanced this wonderful environment.

Did have a short walk in the evening but mainly sat trying to absorb the stunning beauty of this area. Once again the seals this time lying on the sandbanks sang us to sleep.

David.

Isle of Islay 28/06/2010 (Part 1)

2010-07-08T16:02:00.001-07:00

Isle of Islay 28/06/2010 (Part 1)
An Clachan to Port Askaig
28/06/2010An Cladach to Bagh an Da DhoruisIt would be hard to leave an cladach. However, the beautiful morning eased the sadness. Breakfast was once again a leisurely affair. The kayaks were packed, the Bothy was tidied and left in the same condition as we found it. We tried to absorb as much of the atmosphere of this area before leaving.The lupins looked vibrant as they directed your view up Gleann Ghaireasdail towards Sgorr nam Faoileann. A single Seal cruised near the rocks. The Adder I had spotted sunning it’s self yesterday on the rocks near the Bothy was nowhere to be seen (I was hoping for a pic of it). Oyster Catchers shrilled from the beach, the call of the Curlew drifted down from the hill and a Buzzard soared on the warming thermals. Everything in the world seemed perfect. Gleann Ghaireasdail towards Sgorr nam Faoileann.
We again would have the flow and breeze pushing us North up the Sound. However, if we needed more speed Jim would use his prototype ‘Quad-Matic Sea Kayaking Power Paddle’.

Time to leave an cladach.

The wind freshened slightly as we were guided up the Sound. What a difference a following tide and breeze makes. Before we knew it we were at Port Askaig. Jim never used his prototype paddle!!!!

Port Askaig.

It was quickly decided to have lunch at the Port and catch up with the news and World Cup results. Lunch was washed down with a pint of shandy made from the finest German Lager.

David

Isle of Islay 28/06/2010 (Part 2)

2010-07-08T15:12:00.000-07:00

Isle of Islay 28/06/2010 (Part 2)
Port Askaig to Bagh an Da Dhoruis
The cloud cover was steadily increasing as again we headed back onto the water.
The Sound with Jura and the Paps of Jura in the background.

The coast line north from Port Askaig is delightful to paddle: so much to see as the west coast of Jura opens up and draws your attention. There was the obligatory seal here and there but there was a notable drop in the number of sea birds. I was determined to see not only a Basking Shark, but see a Basking Shark close up. I had been scanning the seas intently for days now without any luck. Today was no different; perhaps tomorrow? As we rounded the north point of Islay the Island of Colonsay reveals itself on the horizon. The birdlife also increased as the swell from the Atlantic was felt for the first time.
The northern headland of Islay: Rubh’a Mhail and Rhuveal Lighthouse.

After rounding the northern tip of Islay it was a short paddle of about 1km to Bagh an Da Dhoruis (beach) were we would camp. It was an exciting feeling as the Atlantic swell. The sea was calm and serene as the swell lifted and dropped the kayaks gently, but you are left in no doubt that given the wrong weather conditions this part of the coast could be a very dangerous environment. A small colony of massive seals were spotted as they basked in different position on the rocks and skerries. Leisurely they came off the rocks to inspect us from a distance; before coming closer and following us. As always the high point of these encounters are the typical front fin slap on the surface as the seals semi- breech from the water to chase us off their territory. They eventually got bored with us and left, no doubt, to go back to their slumbers. We were soon at Bagh an Da Dhoruis and paddled to the west end of the beach which would give us some shelter if the weather deteriorated and the breakers got higher: we would still be able to launch without getting wiped out. Before landing we were once again escorted towards our landing site by an ever increasing numbers of seals.

Bagh an Da Dhoruis

Making camp.

A 5 star view from my tent door (I suppose it will do!!)

Relaxing after something to eat and taking in this fantastic wilderness.

Later in the evening we explored the beach and the caves at the east end of the beach.

Fresh tracks and markings of an Otter at a cave entrance.

End of another perfect day on Islay.

As I lay in my sleeping bag with my eyes closed that night, I was serenaded to sleep by the seals singing and the waves breaking on the beach.

David

Isle of Islay 27/06/2010

2010-07-08T14:11:00.000-07:00

27/06/2010, Aros Bay to An Cladach.

I was wakened, by a Cuckoo calling from the hillside near the campsite. The heat was already building up in the tent. The morning was glorious: blue skies, blue seas and a light warm breeze and Terns dived and chattered in the bay. A good start to the day. Breakfast was eaten and then it was time to depart from Aros Bay.The kayaks were launch from the bank into the river that flows as short distance to the bay and walked down to our departure site.

We stopped for a final view of the bay.

Jim checks the map one more time before heading onto the water

Cliodhna and Sumarlidi II ready for the day ahead.

The weather was perfect for leisurely paddling: we had a following tidal flow and breeze.

Jim, the old sea dog demonstrates his internal compass!!! That’s the way to the Bothy at Proaig, isn’t it ?

Pushed along with the tide it did not take use long to reach Proaig Bothy were we would explore. Although the Bothy has a solid roof on it, eternally it is neglected and had pigeon/bird droppings in it. However, it could be a safe haven if the weather blows up or in emergencies and there are adequate camping sites in the walled garden near the Bothy Proaig Bothy and the old disused sheep dip pit.

We noted our names in the visitor book and left to head further up the Sound.

The flow increased as we rounded Mc Arthur’s Head and the lighthouse. This area is where the Sound begins to narrow and we increased our pace as we headed up the Sound.

We also wanted to explore the Bothy at An Cladach before moving further up the Sound past Port Askaig towards Rubh’a ‘Mhail at the North tip of the Sound with the view of camping at Bagh an Da Dhoruis beach. However, our plans were torn up as we reached the destination. The Bothy and the environment cast it’s magical spell on us; or should that be me. I might not have an opportunity to stay here again. Yes, the tidal flow was heading through the 3 and 4 hour. Jim could see that I was smitten by the Bothy and the surrounding. The decision was made to stay the night.

Hopefully the picture will display the magic that the Bothy and the surrounding environment emanates.

It was a wonderful night: the smell of wood and peat from the glowing fire, the call of the Northern Divers, the stillness and good company. The Chadwick family have left a wonderful legacy to their son Mike Chadwick that we can share in and appreciate and celebrate his life. Thank you.

Other instalments will follow

David

Isle of Islay, 25-26/06/10

2010-07-08T13:30:00.000-07:00

It was always a toss of the coin if it would be Uist or Islay. For once we made the correct decision: it was to be the Isle of Islay and a kayaking trip to remember. Ready to board the Ferry: Isle of Arran at Kennacraig on the Kintyre Peninsular.

The weather for the crossing was calm and we spent most of the time on deck watching the wildlife and beautiful scenery. The only complaint about the ferry was the price: £134.80 return, for two passengers and a car!!!!! Still the wildlife spotted on the journey down West Loch Tarbet and North up the Sound of Jura began to make amends for the cost of the ferry. Some of the wildlife spotted on the crossing: Minkie Whale, Seals, numerous Guillemots, Terns and Gannets diving for fish, Eider Ducks, Arctic Skua, Fulmas, Divers, Geese and the usual assortment of Gulls. No doubt I have forgotten a few more.
The Sound and the Paps in the background.

Port Askaig on the East side of Islay.

After departing from the ferry we headed to Port Ellen to check our launching site for tomorrow (26/06/10). We then headed towards Claggain Bay to camp over night. After pitching the tents and having a brew-up the day was rounded off by watching an Otter for a few minute. Time to hit the sleeping bags:zzzzzzz.

The launch at Port Ellen Will all the kit fit in ?

Ready to go.

Heading East of Port Ellen the sea is sprinkled with skerries. (Jim)

Lunch on Islay near Eilean Mhic Mhaolmhoire. As we paddled through the channel four Red Deer ran from the Eilean across through the water to Islay mainland. Seals seemed to follow us in from all directions. Small shoals of Grey Mullet swam and fed in the shallow sandy seabed.

A perfect place for lunch.

The number of seals in this area, seem to indicate that there is a healthy population. Seal pups at all stages of development were also spotted.

Sad, a dead seal pup. We were to drawn to the pup as a Black Backed Gull was feeding on it. As we looked at the lifeless seal pup we were again surrounded closely by approximately 10 adult seals.

A touching moment for all.

The end of a great days paddle: campsite at Aros Bay on the East side of Islay.

Other instalments will follow
David

Ledaig to Oban

2010-05-30T14:29:00.000-07:00

The trouble with having access to an area with a wide range of classic paddling options is that certain areas are neglected for more classic wild/remote days paddling. The paddle from Ledaig caravan site to Oban Bay was not the most adventurist day paddle ever planned, but as it turned out, it was to be a very enjoyable day trip.

Jim Breen launching at Ledaig.

The plan was to paddle from Ledaig south west, across to west of Dustaffnage Castle and follow the coast passing Camas Rub na Liathaig, Ganavan Hill, Ganavan Bay to Maidan Island near the narrows between the Island of Kerrera and the mainland into Oban Bay. The paddle revealed many small coves and ideal landing places along the Dunstaffnage Castle area. The whole area of this coast was adorned with wild primroses, a sprinkling of thrift and interesting geology formations. Ravens from Ganavan Hill and the occasional seal kept us company as we headed for Oban Bay.

The Lismore ferry heading out of Oban Bay.

We thought it would be a good idea to give way to the Mull ferry heading into Oban!!!!!

The north tip of the Island of Kerrera, near the narrows into Oban Bay.

Taking cover from a sudden down pour of very heavy rain under one of the many piers in Oban Bay.

The rain lasted for about 5 minutes.

Lunch on the east shore of Kerrera.

Exploring the coves near Dunstaffnage on the paddle back to Ledaig.

Nearly back at Ledaig. Looking east towards the Connel Bridge.

In all we paddled approximately 24km. It turned out to be a very good day’s paddle.

The End

A Perfect Day on The Firth of Clyde.

2010-05-28T00:02:00.000-07:00

Past experience of paddling the waters on the Firth of Clyde have always been grey, wet and windy affairs, with the result that this diverse area has been neglected over the years. After watching the weather forecast plans were made to revisit the Clyde. We would launch from Largs Marina. The weather Gods did look kindly on us this weekend (Sunday) and my perspective on this area has changed. The paddling plan was to leave Largs and paddle North West, completing a figure of 8 around Great Cumbrae and Little Cumbrae. As it turned out, this was to be a very memorable day’s paddlefor all the right reasons.

Launching from Largs Marina.

What little breeze was there, soon fell away, leaving mirror like conditions.

Myself, enjoying the Clyde as I have never experienced it.

Taking a short break on the west shore of Great Cumbrae.

Paul and his hat!!!!!

Little Cumbrae Castle built in the 16th Century. Cumbrae House in the background is now a yoga and meditation centre.

Lunch time on the West side of Wee Cumbrae: at the old pier and lighthouse. We were welcomed by a fine display of thrift and other flowers.

The Lighthouse on the west coast of Wee Cumbrae.

It does not come any better than this.

The End.

The Kyles of Bute. (Porpoise, Maids and Clouds).

2010-05-03T02:09:00.000-07:00

I had wanted to paddle the Kyles of Bute for a few years now but for some reason never got around to it. I was to meet Eddie at Colintraive where we would launch the kayaks. There is always the added excitement of paddling in a new area. The geography of the area and the low lying cloud hanging over the hills and mingling with the forests created a sense of intimacy that continued to grow throughout the day.

We were then rewarded by our paddle to Eilean Dubh and the bay behind it by a totally tranquil atmosphere.

The Burnt Islands, a short paddle NW from Colintraive turned out to be a paradise for wildlife. Large numbers of Eider Duck (I have never seen so many in one area) swam, dived, courted or just sat contently on the shore. Their Oooooing sound drifted from all directions. Numerous Gulls sat paired on these islands. Herons fished, Oyster catchers, Curlews and Waders called. There were a few seals basking on rocks and more kept an eye on us from the water.

View from near Buttock Point looking North towards Eilean Dubh on the left and further in the background lies Loch Riddon/Ruel.

We then headed to Tighnabruaich. As we approached Tighnabruaich we were privileged and surprised to be in the company of pod Porpoises of approximately 15 to 20 in number, which rolled on the surface over a large area of water. I did not manage to get any pictures of them. I gave up trying and enjoyed the moment. Fantastic and undoubtedly the Porpoises were the highlight of yet another wonderful day on the water.

Tighnabruaich.
Lifeboat at Tighnabruaich coming in from an exercise.

Paddling north back up the Kyles.

Eddie.

Lunch on the west shore of Bute.

Myself with the Maids of Bute.

The Maids of Bute.

Before ending the days paddle we again explored the Burnt Islands. On the way back to our landing spot we again spotted a few Porpoises. The perfect way to end a magical day.

The End.

Oban and summer is here?

2010-04-16T17:57:00.000-07:00

Thank goodness we picked the second week of the Easter holidays to head north to Ledaig near Oban। The skies were blue as the whole area basked in the sun throughout the week। The winds were mostly gentle and fantastic for paddling in the morning and early afternoon। One of the benefits of staying at the caravan is that you can choose when to paddle। We have been up in this area in summer and have had colder weather। We had to keep reminding ourselves that it was late Spring. Hope you enjoy the pics.
Looking north from the Lynn of Lorn towards Appin and further on Lingairloch hills.Lunch break, and the opportunity to take time and absorb the beauty and tranquillity of this wonderful area.
The southern end of Lismore in the foreground, and the Island of Mull in the distance.
Kelp and the views north.

It doesn’t get any better than this.

Oban.

The Mull ferry leaves from Oban.

Landing north east of Oban: Rubha-aird, Ardmucknish Bay. The view south.

In the distance Tralee sands at Benderloch.

The west shore between Ledaig and Tralee sands.

Sunset from Connel, Mull and Morvern in the background.

A subdued Connel Bridge.

The ebb tide draining loch Etive.

The End.

Stove

2010-03-28T11:32:00.000-07:00

I suppose sea kayakers are always looking out for that useful item of kit, that is essential or enhances the experience of paddling and wilderness camping. Occasionally there is no option and we have to replace that essential item.

The Camping Gaz stove that has served me well for over 35 years is now being put into retirement due to having only two settings now: off and on. The plastic control valve has no refinement for the flame and it has been melted in two places!! The blue coating is now dull, flaking and has accumulated years of rust and corrosion on it, and one of the arms to support the pot/kettle now regularly falls off. This little stove has never let me down and it has made me many gallons of steaming hot tea; cooked everything on it from tinned meatballs, potatoes and beans to wild brown trout/sea fish/ shellfish and sirloin steak mushrooms and onions.

It has accompanied me on many hill loch fishing trips all over the mountains of Scotland; numerous sea kayaking days /extended trips on the West Coast and Inner and Outer Hebrides. It has taken constant abuse over the years from falling into rivers and lochs; has been submerged in salt water and covered in sand; I cannot recall ever cleaning it, and it has been lost and found on several occasions. Age and abuse have given this reliable little stove CHARACTER. However, one problem I have always been aware of is the stability of the stove: it always seemed top heavy when something cooking or boiling on it. Many a meal has ended up on the ground. However, after scrapping the contents off of the ground back into the pot and removing the droppings from sheep and geese another fine meal was enjoyed.
The Camping Gaz stove will now be used for making a brew up in the garage, this will save my wife bringing me a cup of tea out every time I ring the tea bell!!!!!!! Hope she does not read this or I will be grounded again!! I am replacing it with a modern Primus MultiFuel stove. Hopefully this will be as reliable (time will tell) as the little inexpensive Camping Gaz stove: the stove with CHARACTER.

Past Kayaking Trips (Pictures Only)

2009-12-29T17:55:00.000-08:00

NORTH BERWICK

LOCH LONG (2009)

MULL: paddled with Heather and Jim.

North Uist: paddled with Claire, Harry and Jim.

My boat: North Shore Atlantic (Cliodhna)

2009-12-29T15:58:00.001-08:00

April 2009
The long awaited day arrived (April 2009) and I finally received my sea kayak: North Shore Atlantic. She was beautiful and still is. She glowed in the back garden. I sat in her, polished her, and studied her again and again. I explored the hatches and adjusted the seat and then polished her again. I have never seen such a perfect design for a sea kayak. Perfection (tippy Quest owners eat your heart out). Sorry, this should be an objective article!!

She was launched in Loch Sween

Moving the bulkhead to give me more storage space. A scary procedure!

It is now December and I have decided to name my boat Cliodhna (Klee-in-ah) after the Celtic Godess: The Irish/Scottish Celtic Goddess renowned for her Great Beauty. When she assumes human form, Cliodna is the most beautiful woman on earth: the fair skinned shapely one. She was the ruler of the waves. It was said that every ninth wave embodied her, and broke higher and stronger than any of the other wave. It was a Celtic belief that every ninth wave that breaks ashore has magical properties. It is also said that to hear Cliodhna's Wave is a fortunate thing, as it will solve for you any difficult problem you are experiencing at the time.Cliodhna rules the Land of Promise, an otherworld where there is no violence or death. She also took the form of a sea bird and therefore symbolized the Celtic afterlife.

Ledaig

2009-12-29T15:06:00.000-08:00

Oban and the surrounding area, is highly rated for sea kayaking. The possibilities are well documented. To give you a different perspective of this area here are some pictures from the summit of Beinn Lora (Ledaig/Benderloch).

Looking west from Beinn Lora: Rubha Garbh Point, Sourthern Lismore, and in the distance Morvern and Mull.

North is Loch Crearan and Appin area

South west looking over the caravan site is Mull

To the east Loch Etive

The shore at Ledaig

A Spurdog taken from the shore and safely returned.

Ledaig near Oban (Summer 2009)

2009-12-29T14:07:00.001-08:00

I am Lucky enough to have the use of a caravan at Ledaig near Oban. There is some wonderful paddling in this area, day or extended outings: Lismore, Loch Etive, Kerrera, and Mull, Cuan, Jura, the list goes on and on.

Eilean Mor at Dunstaffnage Bay.
View from Camas Nathais, looking towards Kerrera and Mull.

Entering Ardmucknich Bay.

Lunch time.

Lismore

2009-12-29T12:08:00.000-08:00

JULY 2009

This paddle and overnight camp on Lismore (18/19-07-09) had all the ingredients for an enjoyable and memorable trip. Plan ‘A’ was to launch from Port Appin. However, due to the lack of parking facilities pan ‘A’ had to be abandoned. Plan ‘B’, five of us: Kirsty, Craig, Eddie (Quest129), Jim and myself, launched the kayaks from just north of Benderloch and paddled across Loch Crearan past Eriska out into the Lynn of Lorn and north past the Appin Rocks towards the north tip of Lismore . The sea was lumpy (exciting) as we past Rhbh’ Aird Ghainimh, heading south towards the skerries off Port Ramsay, where we had an early lunch. After lunch we retraced our wake past Rhbh’ Aird Ghainimh and paddled down the south coast of Lismore. Eventually we found a suitable campsite near Dun Uamh nan Cradh.

Wildlife sighting during the two days was fantastic: numerous sea/land birds, seals/seal pup, otters swimming, hunting and eating its catch on the shore and mackerel chasing large shoals of sprats near the shore.

The calm before the storm

Sunday, after exploring Eilean na Cloiche we paddled across the Lynn of Lorn heading towards the finishing point at Ledaig caravan park, the sea got very lumpy (even more exciting). The conditions were deteriating quickly (waves breaking) as we neared Fion Ard: we headed Camas Nathais bay to shelter. Cold and tired we found a sheltered area out of the increasing wind and rain, lit a fire which lifted the spirits, shared some food, reflected on our days paddle and life in general and laughed for the next four hours, thanks to Eddie. The evening calm came, we left the bay and 40 minutes later the trip was over. LismoreGreat paddling and company.

North Uist

2009-08-04T00:52:00.000-07:00

It was 2005 when we last had a kayaking trip to North Uist. Once again we made the long car journey north towards the islands with so much promise, not only in terms of wonderful sea kayaking, but wildlife, scenery, culture and a relatively pristine environment. The journey passed quickly and soon Crianlarich, Glen Coe, Fort William, Kyle of Lochalsh and the Skye Bridge were distant memories. We had lunch on the east coast of Skye accompanied by an otter, foraging not far from us in and along the seaweed, like flakes of snow falling, gannets dived for fish and in the background the Island of Scalpay. Our journey continued towards Uig to board the 6pm Calmac ferry to Lochmaddy (Loch nam Madadh) on North Uist (Uibhist a Tuath). The sail over the Minch was slightly lumpy at times. Again, time passed quickly as we observed terns, puffins, guillemots, gannets, shearwaters, fulmars, black back gulls and a few skuas fishing the tidal races on this stretch of sea.Hopefully, without sounding too philosophical, a ferry journey no matter how short, always generates the feeling that you are not only leaving behind the mainland, but breaking the umbilical cord to the responsibilities of family, pressures and stress of everyday work and financial commitments.

Leaving Uig Skye behind, heading for Loch Maddy

As we neared Lochmaddy the worries, pressure and stress had rolled away, like sea spray rolling off a puffins back. Yes, it does sound a bit ‘too philosophical’, but I am leaving it in.The weather was always going to be problematic on this trip.

Loch Maddy under the clouds

The forecast suggested that there would with strong winds and squalls from the S,SW,SE, which meant that the direction of the rain would be vertical, horizontal and diagonal!! At moments we got rain in all directions at the one time!! Lochmaddy welcomed us (27/07/09) with dark clouds and rain. After leaving the ferry we travelled north of Lochmaddy found a dirt track off the single track road and set up camp on the moor away from civilisation, had a brew up and watched a short eared owl hunting across the moor. Plan ‘A’ would be decided in the morning after listening to the Stornoway Coastguard forecast.At 10.10am the silence of the VHF was broken as a soothing, warm and attractive female voice with a Gaelic accent directed us to the appropriate channel. We listened to her ‘WEATHUR’ forecast which was ‘POOUR’. Boys being boys, we estimated that from her voice she was island girl, belonging to Harris/Lewis, between the ages of 23-30, dark hair, blue eyes, slim, very attractive and single. We christened her ‘Maria’, and from then on we checked out every Coastguard broadcast to hear her warm voice. After our first encounter with Maria we fought over the VHF, blood on both sides was drawn. However, the younger man won. After maria had signed off, plan ‘A’ (28/07/09) was to book into the Uist Outdoor Centre as the ‘WEATHUR’ was to be very POOUR and the already blustery winds were to increase. Uist Outdoor Centre is a haven during bad ‘WEATHUR’ or a good base for kayaking, and we have always received 5star hospitality from the owner: Niall Johnson and his staff. Checkout link: http://www.uistoutdoorcentre.co.uk/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1. That evening the winds and squalls increased and for a short time the rain turned to hail followed by thunder and lightning, which seemed to be hanging over Harris or Lewis direction. The conversation the next morning was of the mini tornado that hit Stornoway damaging home and cars (Gods revenge on Stornoway for Calmac running the Sunday ferry). The great thing about places like Niall’s outdoor centre is the people and characters you meet. We met many people from foreign lands: English, also our EU brothers and sisters from France and Germany. All seemed to mix well and enjoyed the banter and relaxed in the warm and friendly atmosphere of the centre. It was only a matter of time before I would finally meet someone from this forum: Helen M, who was up in Uist with her husband Dave (new nickname also given to him, Whisky George) and London Tony. Unfortunately we missed meeting Mike B by one day, who, we understand had a run of bad luck: lost or broke a crown and also broke a tent pole. I think we will also give Mike B a nickname: Lucky B. 29/07/09, we packed the kayaks and headed into the Lochmaddy fjard. According to Niall Johnson Lochmaddy is the finest example of such a geological formation. A link: http://www.jncc.gov.uk/pdf/gcrdb/GCRsiteaccount2030.pdf. The loch is a large shallow inter-tidal basin of inlets, sand and mud flats and is littered with numerous skerries and islands: a haven for wildlife. Wildlife observed: red deer stag on one of the small islands, I presume it swam across from the mainland; countless seals and one white pelted seal pup at the north end of the loch; large flocks of curlews and lapwings, geese, countless herons, flying male eider ducks with their beautiful white and black patches a very elegant bird when in flight; many waders, some which I could not recognise and for me perhaps the highlight of our trip was the sea eagle which passed fairly low over our camp site a few times being harried by numerous gulls which only highlighted the size of these magnificent birds. Latter in the evening we spotted a parcel of hinds on the mainland. Even with the fierce squalls I was left in no doubt that Lochmaddy is a very special place, which I will explored further in the future. At the top end of the loch there is a portage, we succeeded in doing this quickly and set up camp for the night.

The portage at the head of Loch Maddy

A great campsite after the portage

Jim Breen

The kind offer by a Lochmaddy family stacking peat to help ourselves to their peat was never acted upon due to the fact that we went trout fishing and latter had an early night.30 and 31/07/09, we had a leisurely breakfast and waited for the early afternoon neap tide to flood across the mud flats and around Rubha Dubh. We prayed the neap tide would reach where we had prepared to launch, the only other alternative would be to plough out through the mud flats or return by the portage and south through Lochmaddy. Due to meticulous calculations and planning (coded for sheer luck) we made the launch from the planned area minus a few yards. We were afloat, we had sunshine, and we had a few hours before the SW winds increased. However, as always the squalls harassed us as we paddled passed Rubha Dubh, Hestam, through Bagh Teileam, around Aird Thormaid towards our final destination: Loch nam Ban and possibly (probably due to Maria’s worsening forecast of POOUR WEATHUR) the escape route by road back to Lochmaddy. At least we had the opportunity to be on the water that day; even if it was only a short paddle. We erected the tents with the bell ends facing into the increasing SW wind. Some scraps of wood were found later in the evening and we sat by a fire till 11.30pm. The wind did increase during the night accompanied by rain. By morning the wind had swung round to the SE as predicted. We changed the directions of the tents to face into the predicted gale force 8 winds and changed into waterproofs before walking over the Otternish causeway that joins North Uist and the Island of Berneray. As we made our way over the causeway the wind and sea increased in strength and height the rocks buffeting the wind over the causeway and landing creating rose like squall patterns on the lee ward side of the road before racing away towards Berneray.

Berneray Caueway

As we continued the walk we checked out the passage under the causeway for otters and kayakers! The ferry waiting area at the north end of the causeway gave us shelter from the elements. For future reference there is a fresh water tap near this building. Also after 5 more minutes walking we treated ourselves to a meal in a small but friendly tearoom/restaurant/shop, for a reward and in preparation for the incoming gale and our voluntary solitary confinement in the tents. By the time we retraced our steps the wind was blowing even stronger, rain fell in the swirling wind, We were pleasantly surprised that the tents were still standing and not shredded. Preparations were made for tent life: water, food, book, chocolate goodies, stove and tea making provisions. Both of us entered our tents about 1-30/2-00pm and we did not emerge till the next morning. I don’t think that the full blown force8 gale materialised for the period perceived. However, I would suggest that it did hit the force 8 mark on occasional gusts.
Storm bound

The rain sometimes was very heavy, accompanied the winds throughout the afternoon, evening and night. Anyway, I was warm, cosy and dry throughout the time confined in the tent, drank lashings of tea, read and experienced the worst ‘WEATHUR’ ever when camping. Isn’t sea kayaking just fantastic. 01/08/09, again after listening to the POOUR WEATHUR forecast we again decided that ‘plan A’ would be to walk, hitch or attempt to catch the bus back to lochmaddy and get the car, if any vacancies- book back into Uist Outdoor Centre, book the ferry for the 02/08/09, drive back and pick up the kayaks and kit, back to our haven, shower, cook, eat, relax and enjoy our last evening on North Uist ,reflecting on the trip. Luckily for us ‘plan A’ was carried out with military precision. It was with regret that we had to leave the island the next day. I am already looking forward to next year, when I am sure that we will return and that the weather gods will be looking favourably down upon us! Thanks to everyone who helped to make this trip memorable. A special thanks from Jim and myself to Niall and the Stornoway Coastguard/ Maria. The biggest thanks must go to Uibhist a Tuath herself.If you have not falling asleep yet, then there are some pics below. The pics are more about the colour, mood and character of North Uist rather than just paddling pics. Hope you enjoy.

West Coast:Seil/Easdale/Cuan/Torsa

2009-07-08T00:24:00.000-07:00

The fantastic weather forecast for the weekend did not let us down. This weekend would not be about big mileage, but leisurely paddling, exploring, extended lunches/breakfasts and taking in the wonderful environment around Easdale, Torsa and Seil. We launched the boats from Easdale (Seil Island, South of Oban) and christened Jim Breen’s new Quest before heading to Cuan Sound where we enjoyed the over falls.

Loading the kayaks at Easdale.

Jim Breen's new Quest is launched in style.

Cuan

We headed out of Cuan through the south east channel at Torsa Beag (Torsa Island) then up the west coast of Torsa for lunch at Caisteal nan Con.

Lunch on top of Caisteal nan Con with Clachan Sound in the background.

Bridge over th Atlantic

The campsite.

Loch Sween (25/04/09)

2009-07-07T01:42:00.000-07:00

There is always something exciting about paddling and exploring an area that you have not paddled before and Loch Sween did would not let us down. Before parking up and getting the kayaks ready we headed to Tayvallich and then to Carsaig Bay to view Jura which lay shimmering in the spring sunshine.

The cars were eventually parked at the forestry parking area (B8025, looks like a passing place: 871 752) at the entrance to Coal Scotnish and the boats were prepared for the days paddle. After launching we paddled NW to the head of Coal Scotnish, exploring the small islands on the way. The scenery is wonderful in this area and wildlife was abundant: seal, geese, cormorant, shag, heron, many shore birds and the call of the cuckoo keep us company.

After paddling back down Scotnish we had an extended lunch in a small bay just west of Rubh an Oib. This small wooded bay was awash with bird song and a shoal of small fish could be seen breaking the surface of the mirrored water.

The smell of bacon filled the air and after a brew up there was nothing for it but to relax and enjoy the sun.

John Burns

After lunch we headed round Rubh an Oib and paddled NW toward the fairy islands which is a magical place that has to be explored at high water to be able to circumnavigate the top islands in the chain. This area has a sandy bottom and one of the top islands is the most perfect island I have seen, covered with scots pine, birch, lush vegetation with a blue haze that turned out to be bluebells. If you are going to get fairies in Scotland, then I would look for them here.

The rain was already falling as we made our way towards Tayvallich. However it seems that the fairies were not very happy with us for entering their kingdom: the clouds built up the rain got steadily heavier and there was the rumble of thunder in the distance. The thunder came closer, the rain got heavier and the clouds darkened. Did I mention the rain got heavier, torrential is the word I am looking for. Now I don’t want you to think I am exaggerating, but it got heavier than torrential: monsoon quantities of water fell on us. Not only that, but now, lighting and thunder was right over us , it felt as though it was about ten feet above us, that might be exaggerating, but it was close, very close.

We got off the water safely. Just as we were emptying the boats some of the clouds cleared and the sun once again appeared, the cuckoo began to call, the birds sang and a woodpeckers drumming echoed across the water.

A perfect end to a wonderful day.